The main factors that affect paver sealing and restoration pricing are:

• Total square footage — larger areas get a lower per-sq-ft rate due to efficiency
• Surface type — pool decks and steps are more labour-intensive per sq ft than open driveways
• Extent of restoration needed — a clean-and-seal is much less than a full lift and reset
• Sealer type selected — wet-look and anti-slip products cost more than penetrating sealers
• Sand type — polymeric sand adds cost but significantly outperforms standard silica
• Existing sealer condition — if there's a failing old sealer, stripping it first adds CA$1.50 to CA$3.00 per sq ft
• Access and site conditions — narrow side yards, pool surrounds, and complex layouts take longer
• Broken paver replacement — each unit swapped out adds material and labour cost

Individual broken paver replacement typically costs CA$8 to CA$20 per unit in labour plus the material cost of the replacement paver — usually CA$2 to CA$8 per brick depending on size and type. For a small number of cracked or oil-stained units (under 20), most contractors will include the swap-out as part of a restoration scope. Matching the original paver colour and size can sometimes be challenging with discontinued products — the contractor will confirm availability at the on-site assessment. In Best tier scopes, up to 5–10% paver replacement is typically included.

A full lift and reset means every paver on the surface is removed, the sand-and-gravel base underneath is re-screeded and re-compacted to the correct grade and slope, and all pavers are reinstalled. You need a full lift and reset when: the surface has multiple low spots across a large area and individual spot re-leveling won't address the overall grade; there's significant water pooling in multiple locations; the base has shifted or heaved over a large section; frost heaving has caused widespread unevenness; or edge restraint failure has allowed pavers to spread and shift out of pattern. Spot re-leveling can address isolated problem areas, but it won't fix a surface with systemic base degradation.

Paver sinking and water puddling is almost always caused by one of four things: base compaction failure — the gravel layer underneath was not compacted properly at installation and has settled unevenly over time; freeze-thaw heaving — water trapped in the base freezes, expands, and pushes pavers up in some areas while depressing others; edge restraint failure — when the plastic or concrete border fails, pavers spread outward and the surface loses its structural integrity; or drainage problems — if the surface slope is incorrect or blocked, standing water saturates the base and accelerates settlement. A contractor will identify the cause at the on-site assessment before recommending spot re-leveling vs full lift and reset.

Efflorescence is the white, chalky, powdery deposit that appears on the surface of concrete pavers and natural stone. It's caused by water moving through the paver material and carrying soluble salts to the surface, where the water evaporates and leaves the mineral deposits behind. It's very common on pavers in their first 1–3 years and in areas with high moisture exposure. Efflorescence must be chemically stripped before sealing — sealing over it locks the deposits permanently into the surface and causes a milky or cloudy appearance in the sealer. Contractors use an acid-based efflorescence cleaner, allow it to react, then neutralize and rinse thoroughly before proceeding.

Yes — with the right approach. Fresh oil stains respond well to a degreaser and hot-water pressure wash. Older, deeply penetrated oil stains require a specialized concrete degreaser applied as a poultice, allowed to dwell for several hours, then agitated and pressure washed out. In some cases, a deeply saturated paver is better replaced than cleaned, as residual oil under a sealer will continue to bleed through over time. Always inform your contractor of oil stains at the on-site assessment so the correct pre-treatment is quoted — standard cleaning protocols won't adequately address severe oil contamination.

All three protect the paver surface but produce very different visual results. Natural look (penetrating sealer) soaks into the paver material and provides invisible protection without changing the colour, adding shine, or leaving any surface film. It's the most maintenance-free option but offers the least visual enhancement. Satin / mid-gloss sealer leaves a thin film on the surface with a subtle wet sheen, enhancing the existing colour slightly and making the pavers look freshly cleaned. Most popular for driveways and patios. Wet look (high-gloss) sealer forms a thicker surface film that significantly deepens the colour and produces a shiny, always-wet appearance. Very popular for patios and feature areas where visual impact is the goal, but it does require more maintenance as it can cloud or peel if applied over moisture or old sealer.

In Ontario's climate, paver sealer lifespan depends on the product type and exposure. Penetrating natural-look sealers typically last 3–5 years before re-application is needed. Satin and mid-gloss film-forming sealers last 2–4 years on driveways with vehicle traffic and 3–5 years on patios with lighter use. Wet-look high-gloss sealers can last 2–3 years on driveways — UV exposure and freeze-thaw cycles degrade the surface film faster in areas with vehicle traffic and salt exposure. The single biggest threat to sealer longevity in Ontario is road salt and calcium chloride tracking onto sealed surfaces — use a salt-resistant winterization coating and sand alternatives to significantly extend sealer life.

Peeling or milky sealer is a common problem caused by one of three things: the sealer was applied when the pavers were still damp or within 24 hours of rain; a new sealer was applied over an old incompatible sealer without stripping first; or a solvent-based sealer was applied too thick and trapped moisture below the film. Unfortunately, once sealer has peeled or turned milky, it must be fully stripped before resealing — applying new sealer over it will peel again. Sealer stripping is done with a chemical stripper or mechanical grinding, followed by thorough cleaning and a proper drying window before new sealer is applied. This is one of the more expensive paver restoration scenarios — get a quote from a contractor who will confirm the full strip and prep is included.

Yes — any glossy sealer applied to a pool deck or sloped surface should include an anti-slip additive. Gloss and wet-look sealers create a smooth surface film that becomes dangerously slippery when wet, especially on pool surrounds where the surface is constantly wet and people are barefoot. An anti-slip additive mixes fine silica particles or polymer granules into the sealer before application, providing traction without significantly affecting the visual finish. It adds a modest cost to the job — typically CA$0.20 to CA$0.50 per sq ft — but is an essential safety measure. Penetrating natural-look sealers do not require an anti-slip additive as they don't create a surface film.

Polymeric sand is a specialized joint filler that contains a polymer binder. When activated with water, the binder hardens the sand into a semi-rigid mortar-like joint that resists washout, weed germination, and insect infiltration. Compared to standard silica sand, the advantages are: weed suppression for 3–5 years vs weeds growing back within one season; ant-resistant — ants can't excavate polymeric joints to build nests; washout-resistant — standard sand washes out from rain and pressure washing within 1–2 years; joint stability — harder joints reduce paver wobble and movement over time. The cost premium over silica sand is typically CA$0.50 to CA$1.50 per sq ft — worth every dollar for any job where longevity matters.

Your joints need re-sanding if you can see the sand level has dropped noticeably below the top of the pavers; if weeds are actively growing in the joints; if there are ant mounds appearing along the joints or under pavers; if the pavers have started rocking or shifting underfoot; or if water is pooling in joint lines rather than shedding off the surface. As a rule, joints should be re-sanded and re-sealed every time you reseal — sealing over low joints seals in gaps that allow water and weed seeds to enter from above. Never skip the sanding step to save money — it's the most important functional part of the job.

Post-sealing maintenance is straightforward. For the first 72 hours after sealing: no vehicle traffic, no foot traffic in the first 4–6 hours, no water exposure. After curing: regular sweeping or leaf blowing keeps debris out of joints; rinse with a garden hose as needed — avoid high-pressure washing which strips sealer over time; remove oil or chemical spills immediately using a mild dish soap and water; avoid using metal shovels on sealed pavers in winter — use a rubber-edged snow pusher; use sand, kitty litter, or sodium acetate instead of road salt or calcium chloride for winter traction. Plan to reseal every 2–4 years depending on the product and exposure level.

The general recommendation for Ontario pavers is: driveways with vehicle traffic — reseal every 2–3 years; patios and walkways — reseal every 3–5 years; pool decks — reseal every 2–3 years due to UV and water exposure. A simple test: drop a few water droplets on the surface. If they bead up, the sealer is still performing. If they absorb into the paver, the sealer has worn through and resealing is due. Resealing on schedule — before the sealer is completely gone — means you skip the deep clean and re-prep required when the paver surface has been fully exposed and contaminated. On-schedule maintenance typically costs 40–60% less per job than off-cycle restoration.

Yes — road salt and calcium chloride are the most damaging substances for sealed paver surfaces in Canadian climates. Salt penetrates the sealer film through micro-cracks and pores, draws moisture into the paver surface through osmosis, and contributes to spalling — the surface pitting and flaking that degrades concrete pavers permanently. Calcium chloride is even more aggressive than sodium chloride. After having your pavers sealed, switch to sand, fine gravel, or sodium acetate for winter traction. If salt exposure is unavoidable near a road, ask your contractor about a salt-resistant winterization coating as an add-on during the sealing job — it's one of the most cost-effective protective investments you can make in Ontario.

With caution. Light pressure washing with a fan tip at low pressure (under 1,500 PSI) from a safe distance is generally fine for removing surface dirt and algae. However, high-pressure washing — especially with a zero-degree or rotating nozzle — will strip sealer and excavate polymeric joint sand from between the pavers, undoing a significant portion of your restoration. Use a garden hose for regular rinsing and save pressure washing for annual or biannual deep cleaning. When you do pressure wash, use the widest fan tip available, maintain a safe distance (at least 18 inches from the surface), and keep the wand moving — never dwell in one spot.

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The instant estimate is a useful pricing range based on your selections, your estimated paver area from satellite measurement, and current 2025 contractor rates across Ontario. It gives you a realistic idea of budget before any contractor contact, and is built from real rates validated with the paver contractors in our network. That said, the final confirmed price is always established after the free on-site assessment — where the contractor measures the exact area, assesses the paver condition, identifies any drainage or base issues, and confirms the scope. The estimate is designed to be accurate enough to be useful, while recognizing that every property has unique site conditions that affect the final number.